Sunday, September 27, 2009

Hiking in Northern Ireland

On Saturday, I went to the lovely little house of Corrymeela at the foot of Knocklayd (hill) on the north coast. I went with a small group from Whitehouse Pres. where my flatmate, Phen, works. It was a lovely spot, and I was excited about my first venture out of the city since I arrived. It was a quiet retreat, a time to do some personal reflection, clear our heads, come before God honestly and openly. Phen and I decided the best way to do this was to hike to the top of Knocklayd. It didn't look that far and it was sure to have a great view. Bring it on!

So, imagine, if you will, that you are hiking Roan Mountain, starting at Carver's Gap and going up to Jane Bald. (If you've never done this particular hike, I'm sorry; imagine a very large hill covered in scrub grass and small bushes. Everyone else...got it in your head? Good.) The hill isn't nearly as high as Jane Bald, and it doen't take nearly as long to get to the summit, but the environment is exactly the same: windy, steep, no trees. And there's no trail, but that's not a problem because you can clearly see the summit from the base. Or not. Knocklayd is just as deceptive as Roan. You reach the "summit" four times before you actually reach the summit. ("Seriously?! There's more? What the...!") And you remember somewhere along the way that Northern Ireland is a very wet country known, in part, for its peat bogs. You become keenly aware of this when you realize that Knocklayd, is, in fact, one of these said peat bogs, which means that the ground beneath your feet may or may not be solid. And those rocks that look like they've been there for a thousand years? They may or may not be precariously perched on the edge of the aforementioned peat bog. So now you're hiking Roan with no trail, a deceptive horizon, Jell-O for footing and loose rocks on a 45-degree slope. And, oh yeah; this whole hillside is also pasture land for sheep. Who leave presents everywhere. Great fun. Add in the occasional sinkhole and jumping the odd barbed-wire fence and you've pretty much got our morning.

As with most hikes that I undertake, somewhere between sinking to my knees in a sinkhole and stepping in my ump-teenth pile of sheep droppings, I began to wonder what in the world I was doing. "This isn't a race! Why am I here? What am I doing?" And, as always, the answer came back two-fold. "One: you know the view will totally be worth it when you really do reach the top. And two: Phen's a good 10 minutes ahead of you and if you stop now he'll think you died." Right. Keep going. And, as always, my reasons were spot on. The view was 360 degrees of awesome panorama. The sea to the north, the Causeway Coast to the west, mountains and farmland to the south and east. The wind whipped our hair and our coats and stung our eyes, but it was also all I could hear, besides the beating of my own heart. God was definitely present. Totally worth it.



For more pics, go here: http://picasaweb.google.com/lynnea.hunter/7DayAtKnocklayd?authkey=Gv1sRgCMmWkvPOrbTeFA&feat=directlink

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Twenty-Four Days In...


Alright, so it’s been almost a month (already!) since I arrived in Belfast. Time for an update!

Life is going well. I’m pretty well settled in my flat, with my amazing flatmates. Nathaniel and I can watch M*A*S*H together, while Phen and I are both Taylor Mali fans. Our house is what we would call a town house in the States. My room overlooks our wee postage stamp of a courtyard, several tall pine trees, and between the trees, a few miles away, is the harbor. We have yet to really figure out the heating in our house, not because it’s all controlled by gas-powered radiators, but mostly because the thermostat is in Celsius. Apparently, 20 degrees is plenty warm. We live on a nice street, which, I’ve come to discover, is also a very typical street: blocks of row houses all with small enclosed front patios, all usually very modest in nature, with roof and chimney structures that give me the overwhelming urge to break into “Chim-Chim Cheeri” while walking down the street.

It’s funny the things I notice about being here, too. For example, I finally figured out what it was about the skyline that seemed so different: very few overhead wires. Instead of having electric poles every several dozen feet like is typical in the States, each block of row houses will be outfitted with one pole from which wires spiral off to each house, giving it a decided May-pole look. Also, even though almost no one has a front yard to speak of, most people find enough space to grow hedges and flower bushes. Roses of every color are quite popular, along with a breed of hydrangea and the most amazing honeysuckle I’ve ever seen. It has bright green leaves and fuchsia petals with royal purple centers. You can tell that hard freezes are rare here because the water mains run on the outside of the houses (and yet people keep saying, “It’s cold, rainy and windy. And this is our summer! Just wait until winter!” I’ll let you know when I get there.) Tree lawns are non-existent and traffic is crazy with double-decker buses, but the sidewalks (pavements) are about double the width of what they are in the States so I’ve just learned to walk to the inside. (Although, this is complicated by the fact that parking on the sidewalk is not only acceptable, it’s often necessary.) I’ve also noticed that people ONLY have the right of way when they are well within the parameters of a legal crosswalk while it is flashing green. Woe be unto you for jay-walking which is not only illegal, it’s just downright dangerous; the buses do not stop.

My placements are going well, too. I don’t really have a “typical” day, since I work somewhere different every day, and even if I do work in the same place two days in a row, it’s for vastly different groups. The youth fellowship at Fortwilliam and Macrory Presbyterian is still getting off the ground after summer; Chris—the youth director—and I are still assessing what to do. It’s a small group, but the ones who come are committed, which is good. I teach the youth Bible Class on Sunday mornings, and I can report that the youth of Belfast, Northern Ireland, and the youth of Johnson City, Tennessee, are very similar: they won’t shut up until you ask them a direct question about what you’re studying. Then it’s all crickets. Oh well. Comfort in consistency, but I wouldn’t mind some discomfort in that area. Fortunately, when they do speak, it’s also very much like home; good ideas, thoughts and insights. It’ll help, too, when they get more used to my accent and when I get slightly less culturally obtuse.

My work also takes me to the WAVE Trauma Centre, where I love working. I am currently involved with four groups there. The Injured Group meets on Monday nights, and are just starting their new Recognition for All Injured Campaign, which incorporates new ideas about compensation and recognition for all those injured (physically or otherwise) during the Troubles. They’re having a book launch on October 6, for a book that they wrote together, and last week was a meeting with representatives from the Victims’ Commission. I took minutes for that meeting, and it was definitely a situation where, while I physically understood what was said, I’m sure I have no idea the magnitude of the meeting. More about the Campaign as it unfolds. I also work with the Men’s Group, who are starting a new peacemaking and reconciliation study course, and I work with the Women’s Group, who just started a history of Northern Ireland course. Today was the kick-off for that with a tour of the Crumlin Road Jail (spelled “gaol”.) In operation until 1996, it’s now a historical site that offers tours. I’m excited about learning more about this area that I’ve chosen (was chosen) to serve. My fourth group is the Young Women’s Group. They meet every other Friday night, and were apologetic about being really girly the first night I was with them. “Please be girly!” I said. “I live with two boys, so I need girly!” They are great women. They are starting a new series of programs for this semester, one of which is a weekend aboard a tall ship sailing the North Channel (between N. Ireland and Scotland.) There are only 9 spots available, which, of course, go to the group members first, but if there’s a free spot, I’ll probably get to go! (I’m not gonna lie, I really hope to!)

Saturday mornings have recently been spent at St. George’s Market in City Centre, where we get fresh fruits, vegetables, any spice you could ever possibly want, REALLY fresh seafood, crepes stuffed with everything from chocolate to chicken, and a healthy dose of live, local music. There’s a lady from Miami, Florida, of all places, who has a cookie stand and figured out how to use curry in a snickerdoodle, and a man who has a stand dedicated to good coffee. I had him grind me some Guatemalan coffee, and I have successfully figured out how to operate our “cafetiere” (a.k.a. French press.) Yea, good coffee!

Anyway, that’s enough for now. Hard to believe almost one month has already gone by. Gives you an impression of how long a year might go. Thanks again for all your prayers! More soon! Peace…

Thursday, September 17, 2009

New Pictures!

Check out the latest pictures from Belfast. While you're there, check out Scrabo Tower. Amazing!

http://picasaweb.google.com/lynnea.hunter/PeaceWallsAndMurals?authkey=Gv1sRgCOLlp8OO5_Da3gE&feat=directlink

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

History Lesson

So here’s a brief, nutshell version of the history of Northern Ireland.

Up until about the 1500’s Ireland was its own country, completely separate from England, Scotland and Wales. It was never really centrally governed, was solidly Roman Catholic in religion, Gaelic in culture, and largely uninfluenced by the English. It was, however, heavily influenced by Scotland, mostly due to geographic proximity.

Then came Martin Luther and his 90-some-odd thesis against the Catholic Church. While the Reformation swept across Western Europe, and Henry VIII was creating his own church, Ireland remained largely untouched. Roman Catholicism remained the predominate religion.

At the same time, England was busy colonizing the world. One of the first places to be colonized was its neighbor to the west, Ireland. At first, England was rather content to just let Ireland be, but England was now largely Anglican and Ireland was still largely Catholic, and this presented a problem: France and Spain—two of England’s enemies—were also mostly Catholic, and had Catholic rulers. England was afraid that Ireland would unite with France and Spain in an uprising against them. So in a political move called the “Plantation of Ulster,” British Parliament decided to reward the loyal nobles of England and Scotland (who are by this point united with Wales in the UK) with land taken from Irish natives. Again due to geographic proximity, a large amount of land in the northeast corner of the island went to Scottish nobles, who were also mostly Protestant. Some land was given out in the rest of Ireland, but it was concentrated mainly in the northeast. By moving the loyal nobles to the new colony, England hoped to gain political and religious control, and keep Ireland out of an alliance with France and Spain.

For the next hundred years or so, Ireland continued to be taken over by English and Scottish nobles and the descendants of the original Plantation movement. There were many small uprisings and skirmishes throughout the 1700’s between the native Irish who were being pushed off their own land, and the new nobles and nobles’ descendants, but these were almost always easily and quickly dealt with by the British military. In the early-1800’s Ireland was joined with Great Britain as part of one United Kingdom, but there was continuing and growing unrest.

In the early 1900’s there was a growing sentiment for Irish home rule. The descendants of the original nobles in the Plantation, however, were strongly against home rule because if Ireland became its own country it would mean that the demographics would shift heavily towards Catholicism and native Irish culture, meaning that then they would be the minority religiously, culturally and—most importantly—politically. The saying at the time was, “Home Rule equals Rome Rule.” In 1920 it was finally decided that the counties in the northeast corner of the island—known as Ulster—who were largely pro-British and Protestant (labeled Unionists), would be partitioned off to stay with the UK, while the largely Catholic, pro-Irish population on the rest of the island (labeled Nationalists) would be granted sovereignty. The problem with this was that the population was not so neatly divided between Ulster and Ireland, and neither were sentiments; both sides had people who felt they were being left out and cheated. Nevertheless, Ulster was partitioned off to become Northern Ireland and a part of the UK, while the rest of the island became the Republic of Ireland.

Paramilitary groups were popular and many rose up on either side of the conflict, organizing and gaining momentum (and weaponry) to use force to make their points. The Ulster Volunteer Force actually took up arms AGAINST their own independence. This civil war was interrupted by World War One, where the Ulster Volunteer Force, along with many other groups and military forces, joined the war effort and suffered huge casualties. Also, during this time, there was a brief uprising in Ireland of the Irish Republican Army. They engaged the British military in an attempted coup, where they were defeated; key members were arrested and publicly executed. Instead of acting as a warning, their executions made them martyrs which only served to raise the proverbial battle flag and support the IRA’s cause. People continued to join forces on one “side” or the other which led to increasing tension.

During the 1960’s and 70’s there was a worldwide movement for civil rights. In Northern Ireland, there had been a complete overhaul of the education system, which meant that the Nationalists had more of an opportunity for higher education; something they had not had before. Graduates were now more informed, more empowered, and were becoming the catalysts for change. The Nationalists especially were pushing for change towards home rule, however, the Unionists, by virtue of numbers, dominated everything from politics and religion to housing. The push for change was met with violence; Unionists resisted Nationalist efforts which only made Nationalists push harder.

In the mid 70’s the Troubles (as the back and forth paramilitary struggle became known and is known as today) hit a peak. Homemade bombs, gunfights, bricks through windows were all too common throughout Northern Ireland and Belfast, especially at interfaces (areas where Protestant neighborhoods and Catholic neighborhoods border each other.) Acts of terrorism were everyday events from paramilitary groups which made cease fire talks between official governing bodies nearly impossible. The Troubles began to decline in severity in the early 80’s but continued into the late 90’s and early 2000’s. Finally in 1998, an agreement was reached to give Northern Ireland a certain amount of autonomy to decide for itself where it should belong. The Republic of Ireland agreed not to pull it from Britain by force, and Britain agreed not to make it stay should it choose to leave. So far, by general election, the people of Northern Ireland have chosen to stay with Britain.

Today the issues of conflict mostly reside with fear and power; fear of people losing their identities since they have had generations to become comfortable where they are, and the reluctance to share power (or relinquish power) with (to) the perceived “enemy.” Another enemy in Northern Ireland today is complacency. Since bombings, shootings and other acts of violence are not nearly as common as they once were, many people are happy to just stay where they are and live in a permanent cease-fire state. “Don’t rock the boat” is a too-common sentiment. Fortunately, “What can we do?” is also a common sentiment. I have been very impressed with many of the people we have met through our site placements who see this divisive society, not as a huge obstacle, but as a challenge and opportunity for growth. Utilizing youth programs, sports, the arts, clubs, schools and community centers, people are willingly reaching out to “the other.” Several of our sites are near interfaces and at least two—Macrory and Whitehouse—sit directly on the lines. While the building placement might not have been originally intentional, the programming now definitely is: ALL people are children of God, deserve love, respect and dignity, and we are called as Christians to do something.

That brings us up to Northern Ireland today. Like I said earlier, this is just a very brief, nutshell version of the history here, and there are many more layers and themes that add to what makes life here the way it is. Hopefully this gives you a better idea of why I am here, and why peacemaking and reconciliation ministry is so important. I hope to soon post more about the recent events and shed some light on peace walls and murals, but in the meantime, I’ll let you digest this.


Two slight ammendments to make:

1) The Scottish nobles who received land in Ireland from the English, weren't exactly nobles so much as they were just loyal British subjects.

2) One of the major differences between the colonization of Ireland and the colonization of so many other places--and one of the factors that led to the Troubles--was that the colonizers never became the majority. So often, the colonizing population eventually outgrew the native population in numbers as well as in political and religious prowess. (See the conflict between Europeans and Native Americans in the States in the late 1700's-early 1800's.) This never happened in Ireland, so the native population remained the majority in numbers, but not necessarily in politics and religion.

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Week One

Alright, I have officially completed in-country orientation (althought experiential orientation defintely begins now, full force) and have started getting into my placements. I have met with the youth director, Chris, at Fortwilliam & Macrory Presbyterian Church, and we get along really well. He has a lot of great ideas that I'm excited about helping to implement. The pastor, Lesley, and I get along well, too, and she introduced me to my first "Ulster Fry" this morning. (It's a breakfast that puts anything at IHOP to shame!) She and Chris seem to work well together, and are on the same page about a lot of things pertaining to youth and young adult ministry; I'm so glad to be able to plug in with them.

Much of my time is also spent just getting to know Belfast. I have successfully crossed the road without the aid of a crosswalk (although they have plenty of those) and between the way people drive here--let's call it "excited"--and the fact that they are driving on the opposite side of the road from what I'm used to, this is quite a feat. I have also successfully navigated the bus system (riding double-deckers!), found my way to and from my placement sites (all within walking distance), gotten the flat to feel homey (my flatmates are AMAZING!) and am slowly getting my ear attuned to the accent and inflection of the local dialect. It isn't so much the accent that proves difficult as it is the coloquialisms and words. Some of them can really get you into trouble, too. For instance, where in the States you would say you're full from eating, here, to be full means you're quite drunk. Also, "pants" are underwear; trousers (or jeans) are the clothing that goes over them. To have a roomate means you quite literally share your room; during introductions I made the mistake of telling a pastor that Nathaniel and Phen were my roomates. I was quickly corrected to "housemates" or "flatmates." And the one we can't quite figure out is craic (pronounced "crack.") Things can be "good craic", a person can be "good craic", or you can ask, "What's the craic?" Aside from the fact that it sounds like people are asking about "crack" which is, of course, an illegal street drug, we're slowly figuring out what part of speech craic is and how we are to use it.

All in all, I'm having a fabulous time. My contact info is below so feel free to write me! Another update is coming soon; hopefully a brief history, so keep an eye out. Also, pictures will be up soon, as well. Thanks for the interest and support! God Bless!